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Banaadiri women weavering outdoors |
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The Banaadiris (also spelled “Benadir”) are a
people with their roots in ancient Arabia, Persia
and South and Central Asia. Their name is derived
from the Persian word “Bandar”, which means
“harbour” or port, reflecting their origins as
seafaring traders who crossed the Indian Ocean to
the easternmost part of Africa and established
centres of commerce which linked that continent
with Asia. The first Banaadir communities were
established in what is today southern Somalia
about one thousand years ago. The first group of
settlers originally resided in Al-Ahsa on the
Persian Gulf near Bahrain. Further they were
exclusively composed of 39 families, led by seven
brothers. These 30 families belonged exclusively
to four clans. There were 12 families from the
Muqarri clan, 12 families form Jidati, 6 families
from the Aqabi, and 6 families from the Ismaili
clan. Successively other groups emigrated from
different regions of the Arabian Peninsula at
different times, but mostly from Yemen. During the
tenth century along the Banaadir coast, shoe
factories and textile plants were established and
the production of clothes was exported to Arab
countries, Persia, India, China and other centres
along the East African coast.
The Banaadiris are a multi ethnic people from Horn
of Africa. They are live along the south coast of
that geographic area which Italians called
“Somalia” in 1908. The real protagonists of the
urbanization of Banaadir were the people of Yemen,
who founded the first schools, and constructed the
infrastructure of the area. They also developed
the economy, introduced monetary systems, improved
agricultural techniques to meet international
standards, and linked it to Moslem and world
trade. Banaadiri’s historical profile started
probably in Mesopotamia, crossed Yemen and reached
the coast of Africa where the Banaadiri
civilization grew in flourished.
Mohammed Ahmed H. Mohammed Abati, a Banaadiri
scholar and co-ordinator of the Banaadiri
Community in New Zealand, in this fascinating
account further explorers the historical
background, arts, crafts and lifestyles, and food
of the people of Banaadir.
Yemen Times has in issue 727 of 12th April, 2004,
published a full report about Banaadir, under the
title “Banaadir, The Country of Harbours”.
Introduction Into The Area
Somalia is situated on the Horn of Africa. It
stands at the crossroads between Africa and the
Near East and lies within a region of great
cultural diversity.
It can be divided into three areas
1. The Northern & Central Ranges: Pastoral nomads
live in the country’s northern and central ranges,
where they herd camels, goats, cattle and sheep.
2. The Southern Arable Lands: Cultivatedor and
semi-cultivator farmers produce grain, cotton and
fruit in the southern arable lands between the
Juba and Shabelle rivers.
3. The Coastal Urban areas: The group of urban
people is formed by the inhabitants of the
historical landing points on the coast of the
Indian Ocean.
Unlike other countries in Africa, Somalia too is
undergoing a dynamic period of deep cultural and
social transformation. This is leading, among
recurrent conflicts and internal tensions, to the
formation of a new ethnic identity within the
context of its present national unity. Somalia is
one of the rare African countries where culture,
tradition and ethnicity are appar
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Golden armelt (Sharuuryo) |
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ently homogeneous. However, some clearly
defined differences can be perceived among
Somalis, ethnic components and, as a consequence,
some traditional forms of Somali culture. This is
mainly due to the geographical and ecological
context of Somalis ethnic groups.
In the past there were many other sites along the
coasts of East Africa besides the above centres;
from the archipelago of Lamu to Malindi, from
Mogadishu to Sofala in Mozambique. They formed a
chain of seaports normally visited by traders and
travellers crossing the many routes of the Indian
Ocean. This consistent encounter of people
entailed a dynamic cultural exchange giving rise
to a close cultural affinity of the entire
population of the East African coast.
The Banaadiri Urban Communities
The urban people live in the following parts:
Warshik, Mogadishu, Gendershe, Afgoi, Marka,
Barawe and their surrounding areas, which extend
further along the coast up to Kismayo near the
Bajuni Islands of Chula and Chuaie and Bur Gao.
They are a multi-ethnic group which include Arabs,
Persians, Cushitic groups and Bantu who have
resided in what is today southern Somalia.
The main groups are the ‘Rer Hamar’ natives of
Mogadishu, “Rer Marka’ natives of Marka, ‘Rer
Barawe’ natives of Barawe and the ‘Bajunis’ the
original inhabitants of Kismayo and the Bajuni
Islands. These groups of people are similar but
have different dialects. The Banaadir communities
live in ancient stone homes which their forebears
built in the old parts of the cities. Many of
their cultural traditions are similar to Arabic
culture and Swahili(2).
The coastal strip of Somalia between Warsheikh and
down to Ras Kiamboni had been always and
throughout the centuries a distinct region
different from the rest of Somalia.
The Banaadirs people who are the founders of these
coastal cities lived in these areas since time
immemorial.
They are made up of communities of diverse origin
bounded together by centuries of common tradition,
values and beliefs. The mainstay of the Banaadiri
culture is peaceful coexistence, hard work and
loyalty based on neighbourhood and deep
association to their locality rather than blood
affiliation.
Banaadiri Arts, Crafts & Lifestyles
The geographical proximity to the Arabian
Peninsula and Persian Gulf, and the Banaadiris
seafaring and trade practice resulted in constant
traffic of commerce and human interactions and
exchanges of ideas, which have profoundly
influenced the motifs of the arts, crafts and
lifestyles. Therefore, the workmanship of the
Banaadirs, and their expertise in woodcrafts,
jewellery production of the “Qallinshube”
(well-respected silver-minter group) and mastery
in fashioned clothes is well recognised (3).
The Weaver’s Cloth “Futa Benaadir”
The first industry established along the Banaadir
coast was weaving, dating back to the tenth
century and today cloth weaving remains one of the
area’s main art forms.
In 1330, the Arab traveller Ibn Battuta wrote of
Somalia’s thriving cloth industry:
“In this place (Banaadir) are manufactured
unequalled woven fabrics named after it, which are
exported from there to Egypt and elsewhere.”
As a crossroads between Africa and the Middle
East, Somali
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Necklace with pendant (Gablalow xarfo iyo
gabasha iyo qasab) |
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a, especially the Banaadir coast, was a pivotal
point of trade, linking ports from Egypt to India.
Its capital of Mogadishu sits on the Indian Ocean,
1300 kilometres from the Gulf of Aden and
equidistant from Cairo, Baghdad and the trading
cities of India’s south-western coast. It was once
a major centre of the trade in spices, aromatic
gums, ivory and textiles. Somalia had rich crops
of papayas, grapefruit, bananas, and mangoes and,
above all, cotton. The fields of the Juba-Shabele
land plain were dotted with cotton plants. Somalis
produced over 350,000 pieces of cloth annually
from the fertile ground. Because the ginning and
weaving processes traditionally fell to
lower-caste Somali tribes, the product was cheap
enough to export successfully to countries like
India, Egypt and Kenya.
The white cloth was also the Somali national
dress. One length of it, known in traders Arabic
as “Futa”, wrapped every man’s waist as a long
skirt. Another shorter piece, called “Go”, draped
the torso like a shawl. Women wore a long wrap
called “Guntino”.
By the last decade of the last century, however,
the white futa Banaadiri had been completely
replaced by western clothes, a grey sheeting
manufactured by western countries to the
dimensions of the Somali skirt.
The Italian colonists introduced European style
clothing. A drop in the world cotton market made
production and transportation elsewhere very
competitive. These market forces led to the near
eradication of the Banaadiri futa.
Today, as a result, Somalia’s southern ports of
Marka and Barawa no longer bustle with commerce
and their medieval fortifications crumble in the
wind and tides. So far, the weavers have survived
against the odds. They have survived because,
resourcefully they introduced design and colour
into their weaving, developing - or discovering -
a new substantial market among their own people.
Using locally grown vegetable dyes such as saffron
and imported dyed yarns from India and Pakistan,
the Banaadiri weavers began, in the late 1950s, to
weave brilliant reds, blues, yellows, blacks and
purples into their futas and guntinos, giving
their people traditional cloths to use for
marriages, funerals, furniture, war dancing and
everyday farming.
Nowadays you see men wear a “Macaawiis”, a
brightly coloured cloth, similar to an Indonesian
sarong. With this they may wear a Western shirt or
wear Western dress and cover their heads with
“Kofia Barawe” a Banaadir cap.
Weavers invented dozens of patterns with names
like “teeth” and “goats in the sand dunes”. These
have become standard, and today are worn in major
ceremonies and the religious festivities that keep
the national spirit of this Islamic stronghold
alive. The weaving methods are the same; the
weaver first takes the dyed yarn in 24 batches of
eight metre lengths, each tied together and marked
with spittle and kohl. He dunks them into a sizing
of flour and water to make the fibres stiff and
strong. Then, in a stretching method called “darisi”,
the threads are wrapped from one strategically
placed vertical stick in the building to another
and left to dry like a long L-shaped blanket
When the yarn has dried, it is wound onto a wooden
spindle called the “furfure”, then unwound and
tied into the heddle loops, following the colour
pattern indicated by loose strings on the bamboo
heddle. The weaver affixes the heddle to the loom
and stretches the threads of the new warp out
behind the loom to a single iron hook set
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Guntino a costume worn by Banaadir women |
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in the floor seven and a half to eight metres
away. There all the warp threads are gathered into
one far knot, tied to a length of rope and
attached to the hook. The other end of the rope is
led back to the weaver’s seat. As weaving
progresses and cloth is wound onto the cloth beam,
the warp is fed towards the loom, anchoring it to
the hook each time with a new knot further down
the rope.
Jewels
The style forms of Banaadiri jewels are typical of
all the historic centres of the Indian Ocean
coasts. Production techniques are traced back,
generally to the technique used by the artisans of
the Middle East and India. Jewels highlight the
aesthetic sense of dress; many African people
excel in their choice of clothing and the
Banaadiri, especially their women, stand out for
their regal bearing and dignity.
Most of the jewels are used in the coastal towns
of Banaadir (Mogadishu, Marka, Barawe and Kismayo).
They belonged to the rich merchant class of those
centres, which, at the beginning of this century,
appeared, at least outwardly, to be heavily
influenced by Arab customs (5); women used to go
out veiled and wrapped up in black cloaks.
In the first decades of our century, we see
therefore, that many families had strengthened
their economic position and had accumulated
considerable property, both moveable and
immoveable. Also women, particularly through
donations and heritage, had considerable wealth.
The wealth of gold displayed by the women of the
Banaadir coastal towns was a sign of the
favourable economic situation and served a double
purpose; firstly, to stress the social status of
the owner, in an environment characterized by a
very stratified system of social classes that
contrasted sharply with the “pastoral democracy”
of the interior; secondly, to constitute the
woman’s own capital on which she could rely in the
case, far from infrequent, of repudiation by her
husband.
Gold ornaments were worn in everyday life, pairs
of bracelets, one on each wrist, of the kinds
called “Buf-Buf”, “Gos-Gos” and “Gablalow”. Very
widespread was the “Murriyad”, a choker necklace
made of hollow gold beads, which were filled with
frankincense and gums and gave off a pleasant
scent. It is especially during wedding festivities
that, even nowadays, a great quantity of jewellery
is displayed; the female guests wear rings on
almost all fingers, two or three necklaces of
different kinds and large heavy armlets (Sharuuryo).
During the dances, which mark the wedding
ceremonies “Rajuul”, thick silver anklets with
little bells are worn. Each dancer wears one
Rajuul on the right ankle and moves, beating the
time with her foot, so that the bells tinkle. This
custom came to Banaadir coastal towns from
Hadramut (Yemen).
*The author is a Banaadiri scholar and Coordinator
of the Banaadiri Community in New Zealand.